Brush for long-haired dogs
In short: a long-haired dog is brushed in two stages. A slicker brush with fine pins first removes the dead undercoat and undoes knots, lock by lock; a natural bristle brush, such as the Lady Prestige Démêlage, then smooths the coat and spreads its natural oils. Two to three brushings a week are enough, one a day during the moult.
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Which brush for a long-haired dog?
For long-haired dogs, no single brush does it all: you need one tool that reaches down to the skin and one that finishes the coat. The slicker brush, with its fine metal pins, works deep down: it catches the dead undercoat and opens knots before they tighten. The natural bristle brush works on the surface: it smooths, polishes and gives a gentle massage that stimulates blood circulation.
The right choice depends on the type of hair more than on the size of the animal. Long, silky hair, like that of the Yorkshire Terrier or the Shih Tzu, calls for flexible pins and a light hand. A dense coat with a thick undercoat, like that of the Australian Shepherd, the Golden Retriever or the Collie, calls for a firmer slicker brush and longer sessions during the moult.
| Coat type | Example breeds | Main tool | Brushing frequency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Long, silky hair, no undercoat | Yorkshire Terrier, Shih Tzu, Maltese | soft slicker brush, then a gentle brush | every other day |
| Long hair with a dense undercoat | Australian Shepherd, Golden Retriever, Collie | slicker brush, then a bristle brush | two to three times a week |
| Semi-long hair | Cocker Spaniel, Setter, Spaniel | bristle brush, slicker on knot-prone areas | twice a week |
| All these breeds when moulting | spring and autumn | slicker brush, section by section | daily brushing |
How do you brush long-haired dogs without hurting them?
Work in small sections, from the skin to the tip, holding the lock at the base so that the brush does not pull. Start with the hind legs and work up towards the head: you can see what is already detangled, and your dog gets used to the contact before you reach the sensitive areas.
On dry hair, spray a detangler before using the slicker brush: knots slide out instead of breaking. Finish with a comb: if it runs through everywhere without catching, the brushing is done. If it gets stuck, go back over that area only with the slicker brush.
Wooden handle and fine steel pins: it removes the dead undercoat and undoes knots without irritating the skin. XS size for the head and legs, S size for the body.
Where do knots form on long-haired dogs?
Knots appear wherever the hair rubs: behind the ears, under the collar or harness, in the armpits, on the inside of the thighs, on the britches and under the tail. These are the areas to check first at every session, even when the rest of the coat looks tidy.
A knot caught early comes undone in a minute with a detangler and your fingers. A knot tight against the skin should not be pulled: it should be cut, with grooming scissors and by sliding a comb between the skin and the blade, or by a groomer.
Ladybel tip
Brush before the bath, never after without detangling. Water tightens knots: a dog that goes into the bath tangled comes out matted. Our page how to wash your dog at home details the order of the steps.
Why finish with a natural bristle brush?
Natural bristles smooth the hair without static electricity and spread the natural oils from root to tip: that is what gives the coat its shine. They also gently massage the skin. On long hair, the bristle brush comes after the pin tool, never instead of it: on its own, it glides over knots without opening them.
Oak wood handle and natural boar bristles: an antistatic detangling brush that polishes the coat and massages the skin. For all coats.
Slicker, comb, mat splitter, mitt: which tool for which hair?
Slicker brushes are the basic tool for long-haired dogs: their fine metal pins remove the dead undercoat and undo surface knots. Choose a size suited to your dog, a small size for the head and legs, a wider size for the body.
The comb checks the work and finishes the delicate areas, ears and legs. The mat splitter, with rounded blades, cuts a knot that is too tight without tearing out hair, but it does not replace regular brushing. The grooming mitt suits short hair and dogs that refuse the brush; on long hair, it glides without detangling.
Bladed deshedding tools, such as the Furminator, remove a lot of dead hair but also cut the top coat. On long-haired dogs, keep them for occasional use.
How do you recognise a quality brush?
A quality brush is judged on three details: pins with rounded or protected tips, which glide without scratching; tightly packed natural bristles, which do not flatten after a few sessions; a handle that sits comfortably in the hand without tiring the wrist, because regular care means frequent sessions. The price of a brush is judged over time: a good tool lasts for years.
Our products are made for professional grooming and sold to pet owners: the same choice of tools as at a groomer's, for dogs as for cats. Our customers' reviews are published on each product page, along with the price and availability.
Coat care: good habits
Caring for the coat of long-haired dogs comes down to a few good habits. Removing dead hair before it mats is a matter of hygiene as much as beauty, and the best way to keep an eye on the health of the skin. The choice of products matters too: a suitable detangler, a gentle shampoo, slicker brushes in the right size. Our brushes are the ones we sell to groomers, and every product in the range is designed for regular use.
To remove knots without damaging the hair, two rules: brush before the bath and keep the same frequency all year round. If you are unsure which brush or product to choose, our advice is free, for dogs as for cats. And if your dog has fragile skin, favour gentle care over deshedding tools such as the Furminator.
Shedding and hair loss: what difference does brushing make?
A dog with a dense undercoat loses most of its hair in two moults, in spring and in autumn. During those weeks, daily brushing removes dead hair before it ends up on the sofa or forms matted patches. Hair loss drops noticeably within the first few days.
If the hair loss continues out of season or leaves bald patches, it is no longer a question of brushes: see our page my dog is losing its hair.
When to stop and ask for advice
Red skin, scabs, or a dog that scratches or cries out when brushed are not a grooming matter: stop and talk to your vet. Never force a pin tool over an irritated area.
How often should you brush long-haired dogs?
Two to three brushings a week for long, silky or semi-long hair, one brushing a day during the moult for breeds with a dense undercoat. Five minutes often is better than one long session once a month: the dog accepts it more easily and knots have no time to form.
To find out more: our guide to the slicker brush for dogs, all our dog brushes, the brush for short-haired dogs and, for cats, the cat brush. Prices and availability are shown on each product page.
Not sure which brush to choose?
Tell us about your dog's coat, breed and age: we make these brushes, and our advice is free.